Getting around Guatemala is travel in vivid color
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Loading... - Thomas Bourgeois
- 19 Jul 2022
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With its pyramids, ruins, jungles, volcanoes and thriving Mayan culture, Guatemala is where the story of Central America comes vividly to life. Exploring this fascinating corner of the Americas is easy, but getting from A to B may take longer than you think.
With an average income of less than US$400 a month, owning a car is out of reach for most Guatemalans, so the vast majority of locals rely on public transport to get around. Because of this, buses are almost always busy, but it also means there's almost always a bus going where you want to go.
Travelers will be pleased to hear that Guatemala’s public transport system is extensive and inexpensive, but it isn't always particularly efficient. It will get you to your destination, but be prepared for long travel days, bumpy roads and some discomfort.
Your map may show a short distance, but with poorly-maintained, winding roads, slow-moving traffic and frequent road closures, it almost always takes longer to get there than you think. Still, there are options for explorers of all budgets, and in such a colorful country, the journey is all part of the experience.
Here are our tips for getting around in Guatemala.
Buses are the cheap and easy way to get around in Guatemala
Currently, there are no passenger services on Guatemala's limited rail network, so the main form of mass transportation is the humble bus. Buses in Guatemala come in two classes: comfortable first-class Pullman buses and second-class “chicken buses” – revamped US school buses that go almost everywhere.
First-class buses – also known as 'express buses' – ply busy routes between major destinations, with regular services from Guatemala City to Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango, Flores (for Tikal) and Panajachel (for Lago de Atitlán). Buses also connect major cities to some beach destinations and international border crossings to Honduras, Mexico, El Salvador and Belize.
Not all bus lines are created equal, however. Some buses have toilets, but others don’t. Some have a TV screen up front playing music videos or action movies dubbed into Spanish, while others will let you enjoy the scenery or have a snooze in peace and quiet. First-class buses are about double the price of second-class buses, but they’re also much faster, safer and more comfortable.
Known locally as camionetas, chicken buses are more frequent than Pullman buses, and they cover pretty much every city, town and village in Guatemala. These retired US school buses have been given a new life and a bold new look, with bright primary colors and a riot of chrome trimmings. You won’t see many chickens on the buses these days, but they transport just about anything else.
Buses stop frequently to pick up and drop off passengers, and shopkeepers in smaller towns often use chicken buses to transport goods, meaning there isn't much space in the aisles. They’re slow going, but they’re one of the best ways to meet locals.
Knowing some basic Spanish is helpful if you’re traveling by chicken bus. Stops along the way aren’t clearly marked, but if you let the driver where you want to go, they’ll tell you when you’ve reached your destination. With basic Spanish, you can also ask fellow passengers about the correct fare, so you don’t end up paying twice as much as everyone else.
Chicken buses are better used for short trips than for long, all-day journeys. They’re cramped and uncomfortable, especially if you’re tall (they were made for American school kids, after all). Large backpacks will be put on the roof, so it’s best to travel with a small daypack, rather than exposing your belongings to the weather (and prying hands).
Opportunistic theft is common on these buses, so be alert and keep an eye on your valuables. If someone starts a conversation with you and inches closer, put your hand over your bag’s zipper. While most interactions are genuine, robbers sometimes strike up a conversation to distract you so they can relieve you of your wallet, phone or camera. Read More...
