Water world: A kayak adventure in Victoria’s Gippsland Lakes
Adventure, as defined in the dictionary, refers to a daring and uncertain undertaking that is thrilling, extraordinary, and potentially hazardous. When engaging in outdoor escapades, it is essential to embrace a degree of difficulty, as it enhances the gratifying moments and allows us to discover our true capabilities. Embarking on a six-day, 80-kilometer kayak journey around the Gippsland Lakes in the southeastern region of Victoria with a friend, I realize the true essence of adventure.
While many of my outdoor excursions have been extensively tested and documented by others, a multi-day kayak expedition in the Gippsland Lakes presents a unique challenge. To begin with, the area is vast, encompassing Australia's largest inland waterway system. Spanning over 400 square kilometers, this tempting labyrinth of intertwining rivers, slender arms, islands, and expansive stretches resembling the ocean, reaching up to 18 kilometers across, offers countless possible routes that could occupy a paddler for weeks. Additionally, the ever-changing wind directions, spanning 360 degrees, pose a constant variable to consider, not to mention the uncertainty of achieving desired speeds under such conditions. I find myself torn between excitement and intimidation. Despite planning a route that encompasses some notable highlights, the ultimate realization of our goals remains uncertain.
Fortunately, Gippsland Recreation Outdoor, typically bustling with school groups, graciously provided us with kayak rentals, local insights, and transportation to and from our starting and ending points. During our extensive pre-paddle discussions, the director, Matt Renshaw, inquired about our experience level. Responding with a subjectively measured confidence, I claimed to possess reasonable competence in kayaking. Previous endeavors included four-day paddles around Lake Jindabyne, hugging its periphery, a venture up the mostly sheltered Noosa River, and four days of kayaking in white-water conditions featuring grade 1 and 2 rapids. Meanwhile, my companion, Carola, had participated in various guided, multi-day sea kayaking trips. We had some level of understanding and preparation.
Yvon Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia, once stated, "When everything goes wrong, that's when the adventure starts." Our adventure commenced on the very first day.
After a three-hour drive from Melbourne, we set off in the afternoon, embarking on a three-hour paddle to Raymond Island. Despite encountering slight choppiness on the water's surface and a moderate headwind, our enthusiasm remained high. We eagerly observed the shimmering silver fish darting across the water and marveled at the graceful flight of black swans overhead.
Raymond Island, connected to Paynesville on the mainland by a brief five-minute ferry ride, serves as a haven for koalas. In the face of declining koala populations, 32 individuals were introduced to the island in 1953, and the current population has thrived, reaching approximately 280 koalas (roughly one for every two human inhabitants). The Koala Walk, a 1.7-kilometer loop through the manna gum trees, virtually guarantees a sighting. As we embarked on the trail, barely 50 meters in, I spotted our first fluffy koala, perched high in a tree. Excitedly, I exclaimed, "Ooh, look!" This was followed by the discovery of several more koalas within a span of twenty minutes. Some were peacefully asleep, draped over branches, while others lazily gazed down at us. One baby koala resembled a cuddly toy, capturing our hearts.
