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Dill and haddock fishcakes

Crispy and herby: dill and haddock fishcakes. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer

Serves 4 (makes 16)

potatoes 500g, floury and white fleshed 
haddock or cod fillet 500g
milk 400g
water 200ml
parsley stalks 6
bay leaves 3
black peppercorns 8
dill fronds 20g
breadcrumbs 100g, fine and fresh
eggs 2
butter 40g
plain flour 40g
parsley 40g
double cream 150ml
olive or groundnut oil a little to cook

Peel the potatoes and cut them into large pieces, lower them into a deep pan of boiling water and let them cook for 20-25 minutes. They are done when they are tender enough to pierce effortlessly with a skewer. Drain the potatoes and leave for 5 minutes.

Put the fish into a pan, pour in the milk and water and add the parsley, bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring the liquid to the boil, lower the heat and leave to simmer for 10 minutes, or until the fish is lightly cooked. You should be able to pull the flakes apart with relative ease. Set the fish aside.

Mash the potato. It should be smooth but not gluey. Finely chop the dill and add to the potato. Remove the fish from the milk, break into large flakes then combine lightly with the potato. Take care not to crush the fish.

Roll the fish and potato mixture into 16 balls of approximately equal size, place on a tray and refrigerate for half an hour.

Scatter the breadcrumbs on a plate. Break the eggs into a small mixing bowl and beat lightly. Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan, add the flour and stir together, cooking lightly over a moderate heat for 4 or 5 minutes, stirring almost constantly. Pour in the reserved milk from cooking the fish, discarding the aromatics as you go. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat, stirring until you have a smooth sauce. Chop the leaves from the parsley. Pour in the cream, add the parsley and correct the seasoning. Cover to stop a skin forming and set aside.

Remove the fishcakes from the fridge and drop them, one at time, first into the beaten egg and then the breadcrumbs. Place the crumbed balls on a tray. Warm a shallow layer of oil in a nonstick frying pan, add the cakes without crowding the pan and let them colour evenly, moving them around the pan as necessary. Remove, drain briefly on kitchen paper and serve with the parsley sauce.

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