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La Alta Guajira: Colombia's Most Beautiful and Hostile Desert

La Alta Guajira, located in northeastern Colombia, is a unique and breathtaking destination that offers a mix of pristine desert landscapes, dry tropical forests, and a stunning coastline shaped by the relentless ocean winds. This region is a must-visit for modern explorers and those who believe they've seen it all, seeking to be amazed once more by the pristine beauty of untouched and sparsely inhabited territories.

Located in the La Guajira peninsula, which cascades into the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea, La Alta Guajira spans an area comparable to countries like El Salvador or Slovenia. The region boasts temperatures ranging between 22ºC and 34ºC (71.6ºF–93.2ºF), making it an ideal destination for those seeking a warm and sunny getaway.

The Upper Guajira, the northernmost part of the department, is one of the few places in the world where it's still possible to truly lose yourself, disconnect – literally – and enjoy nature in solitude or with just a handful of companions. It's as if one were traveling back in time, with the desert seemingly frozen in an earlier era. Every corner is photogenic, proof of a place on Earth that offers such subtle and unparalleled beauty.

The region is captivating year-round, with the dry season offering ochre hues and the rainy season transforming the desert into a fertile expanse of green. Regardless of the season, La Guajira often offers colorful sunrises and sunsets, and starry nights perfect for spotting shooting stars and constellations.

To explore La Alta Guajira, it's essential to use authorized tourism agents who have an intimate understanding of the region and the Wayuu culture. These experts navigate not only the land and sea but also the intricacies of Wayuu culture, the largest Indigenous group in Colombia. For 25 years, Andrés Delgado, manager of Kaishi Travel, has promoted sustainable, community-based, and adventure tourism, benefiting local communities despite significant gaps in tourism infrastructure.

Visiting La Alta Guajira also means adhering to Wayuu customs and traditions. It involves staying in their homes or Rancherías, adapted as guesthouses offering limited water, a few hours of electricity at night, and satellite internet. Meals feature goat, freshly caught fish, seafood, squash, beans, yucca, and corn as the centerpiece of their gastronomy.

One of the highlights of the region is the opportunity to stay in Wayuu homes or Rancherías, which offer a unique and immersive experience. Visitors can participate in Wayuu rituals and traditions, learn about their intricately crocheted bags (mochilas), and enjoy traditional meals featuring goat, fish, and seafood.

The region is also home to some of the most beautiful and remote beaches in Colombia, including the Taroa Dunes and Punta Gallinas. Visitors can rent boards for sand surfing, enjoy calmer parts of the bay, and take in the stunning views of the ocean.

In addition to its natural beauty, La Alta Guajira is also a place of great cultural significance. The region is home to many sacred sites, including Jepira, or Pilón de Azúcar, a 71-meter hill offering a 360-degree view of the region. Visitors can also learn about the Wayuu culture and traditions at the Ipotshuru guided tour, which includes stops at five stations showcasing Wayuu culture.

Overall, La Alta Guajira is a destination that offers a unique and transformative experience for visitors. With its stunning natural beauty, rich culture, and warm hospitality, it is a must-visit destination for anyone looking to explore the best of Colombia.

La Alta Guajira is accessible by boat during the rainy season and by land in the dry season. Public land transport is minimal, and most roads are improvised paths carved into the sand by vehicle tracks.

Most accommodations include meals and guided tours to key attractions, with prices varying depending on lodging, distance, and type of vehicle used for moving around. A five-day journey from Riohacha typically costs between USD$750 and $900, excluding airfare.

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