Louisiana Creole Gumbo
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Loading... - Ian Maguire
- 13 Apr 2022
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Prep: 60 mins
Cook: 2 hrs 40 mins
Total: 3 hrs 40 mins
Servings: 8 servings
Yield: 3 quarts
Generational family recipes tend to get taught by cooking together with nary a written recipe in sight. This recipe is no different. It took days of calls, emails, and text messages to family, plus deep sensory mediation, to recall watching my my grandmother, "Nannie," or Ms. Anna Mae King to you, assemble this important family recipe.
What I inherently knew was all of the foundational elements of any Creole gumbo: roux, the Holy Trinity, okra, and canned tomatoes. I can close my eyes now and instantly see Nannie in her housedress and wig, diligently stirring the roux in the black cast iron pan until it was a beautiful chocolate color, taking special care not to burn it.
Nannie took the same care with the okra. It was never added directly to the gumbo pot without par-cooking it in the same cast iron pan as the roux. The process is called "roping," or at least that is what she called it, sautéing the okra until it is bright green and the viscosity from the pod subsides. Now don't quote me, but she might (MIGHT) have added a teaspoon of sugar to the mix to aid in the de-sliming.
Now here comes the fundamental difference between a Creole and a Cajun gumbo, an element that often causes a debate about "real" gumbo. We are talking tomatoes. There is no question for me. Adding the tomatoes was my favorite part because Nannie would let me squish them by hand over the gumbo pot. Those Cajuns don't know the fun they're missing.
The questions that did arise for me in writing this recipe had to do with the proteins Nannie used. Chicken, shrimp and blue crab I knew, though the methodology for the crab escaped me. So I took some appropriate chef-editor liberties. However, when I close my eyes again, I see Nannie browning some stew beef in that same cast iron pan before adding it to the gumbo pot, too. My mother confirmed.
What you will not find in this family Creole gumbo recipe is andouille sausage or filé. The former is for Cajun gumbo and I don't think Nannie liked it anyway. However, the latter was a straight up, "no ma'am, not in my gumbo!"
With that, I dedicate this memory recipe to my beloved and missed grandmother, my mom and sister, and the entire King family. From our family to yours, laissez les bons temps rouler!
"Although this recipe involves many steps, it's worth making and you can taste the love and care of every step and ingredient in the final result. I broke up the prep into two days, which made the gumbo more manageable to cook. And as the recipe suggests, feel free to adjust the seasoning to your taste." —Young Sun Huh
Ingredients
For the stock
1 quart low sodium chicken broth
4 large live blue crabs, cooked and cleaned, outer shell reserved (or frozen cooked crabs) OR 1 pound lump crab meat, picked through for shells (see RECIPE VARIATION for details)
1 pound large, U-26, shrimp, cleaned, shells reserved
For the roux
1/2 cup canola oil, or lard or vegetable shortening
1/2 cup flour
For the gumbo
1 large onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons creole seasoning, Lawry's or Old Bay, plus more to taste
1 15-ounces canned whole tomatoes
2 tablespoons worcestershire sauce
5 dashes hot sauce, plus more to taste
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 leaf bay leaf
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 pound stew beef, cut in 1-inch cubes and seasoned with salt and pepper at least one hour prior to starting the recipe, if not overnight
1 pound bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, seasoned with salt and pepper at least one hour prior to starting the recipe, if not overnight
1 1/2 cups sliced fresh okra, about 6 ounces
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly-ground black pepper, to taste
Cooked white rice, preferably short-grain Carolina rice, for serving
Sliced green onions, for garnish
Steps to Make It
Gather the ingredients. Bring beef and chicken to room temperature before beginning the recipe.
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Make the stock. To a large sauce pan add chicken broth, shrimp shells, and outer crab shells (if using), cover, and set over medium-low heat. When it comes to a boil, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Simmer covered for 20 minutes and keep on low until ready for use.
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Make the roux. Add oil to a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat and sprinkle in flour while whisking. Continue whisking until it turns a milk chocolate color, 16 to 18 minutes. Don't walk away during this step.
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