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Aim in the wall is the Flash

Free climbing with the possibility of a safe jump is in trend. Experts and newcomers meet on the southern Gotthard slope. The right addition: Yoga lessons that train balance and flexibility.

Half of the group traveled to Airolo in Ticino earlier and spent the previous day bouldering on the Gotthard Pass. When everyone has arrived, clouds hang over the Upper Leventina; downpours are forecast for the afternoon. So we stay in the valley and drive to the first bouldering area above Chironico. We notice right away: Bouldering needs material. And: Bouldering is a social affair.

The bouldering mat on the back, climbing fins and magnesium powder in the backpack, the picnic bag with plenty of drinks in hand: That's how we set off. A beaten path leads through the chestnut grove, after ten minutes we set up base camp on a site in the middle of massive blocks of gneiss. The cracks set off with bouldering instructor Albert Casals and look for rocks with challenging routes.

The second bouldering instructor Clemens Deflorin stays behind with us newcomers: Corinne and Andrea both did yoga training, Andrea knows bouldering from the climbing gym, for Corinne the sport is new territory.

The boulder on which three entry routes are described is two to four meters high. Clemens shows how we lay out the bouldering mats on the floor, how we cushion the crash pads, falls or voluntary jumps. He explains how the so-called spotters line up so that they can catch the climbers in the event of a fall and steer them onto the crash pads.

A steep start

Then he tries out the route and demonstrates how to swing up the slab of rock. It looks elegant and light. The steps are tiny, the handles small bumps in the rock, here a narrow edge, there a crack or a ledge where you can apply counter pressure. Swiftly Deflorin shifts his weight, turns, pulls himself up, pushes himself up and in no time is standing on top of the boulder.

It looks light and elegant, but phew! For us newcomers, this so-called slab climbing is a steep start. We would prefer a rock with good grips where we could build confidence in the grip. Read More…

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