Not Too Sweet: An Exploration of Modern French Pastry
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Loading... - Alessia Carta
- 05 May 2023
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Right now, Paris is on the precipice of a pastry revolution.
While the long history of France’s refined baking techniques remains palpable in the elaborate croissants, the mille-feuilles, and the puffy brioches piled high in the windows of the patisseries, bakeries with more modern offerings are slowly popping up throughout the city.
Pastry chefs are increasingly focusing on practices like fermentation through sourdough breads. They’re incorporating whole grains and alternative flours and finding new flavors to revitalize desserts, and bakers are beginning to put their own twist on traditional pastries which have remained stagnant for years.
The culinary history in France is one of rigor, hard work, and precision. To cook like a French chef is to cook with absolute control over every ingredient, every movement, and every outcome. French pastry commands respect and remains the gold standard for baking across the globe. It is the dream of many young pastry chefs to be able to find their way to France to train under the best-of-the-best and achieve perfection.
Since the 1200s, the French have been enjoying dessert at the end of their meals. During years of monarchy and aristocracy, sugar was restricted to those with money, and elaborately built sculptures of sugar for dessert demonstrated their power. Even as sugar became cheaper and more accessible, the standards of pastry-making have remained very high.
It’s only in recent years that bakeries have dared to deviate from tradition and invent new techniques.
Le Tapissierie, located in the 11th arrondissement, is presenting their own take on the traditional patisseries. The owners of the acclaimed wine bar Septime opened this tiny bakery two years ago and there’s been a line out the door ever since. Made with low amounts of sugar, their pastries feel grown up and emphasize subtle flavors. Read More…
