Outside ski season, the Swiss resort of Verbier transforms into a tranquil, outdoorsy escape
Verbier is – not unfairly – known for its skiing. Since the 60s, what was once a small farming village has become a sought-after winter sports resort.
For the rest of the year, though, life in Verbier is slower-paced. The lower slopes of the mountains and hills are a vibrant green, with cowbells echoing through the valleys. The village itself is quieter, too, with expensive skiing accommodation available at lower prices and the cheese and wine as delicious as ever.
I’m far from an accomplished skier (as anyone who hit the slopes on Val-d’Isere in 2012 could tell you) so I was intrigued to visit in July and enjoy the best bits of a Swiss skiing holiday – views, raclette, drinking, tasteful cabins – with no need to chuck myself down snowy inclines.
There are, if anything, more outdoorsy activities on offer once the snow has melted. Hiking and e-bikes – which can be rented for around £60 a day and are a near-necessity given the terrain, unless you’re a seasoned cyclist – are the best ways to enjoy the landscapes, with the ski lifts a handy shortcut to higher elevations.
The routes range from beginner to some of the trickiest e-bike descents in the region, and trail running has become an increasingly popular way to take in the sights.
You can break up longer trips with a stay in a cabane – relatively cheap mountain hut accommodation with dormitories and simple meals.
We e-biked from Verbier’s centre to Cabane Mont Fort, a lodge with mountains at every window. In July and August, you can get a lift to the summit of Mont Fort to see the sun rise over breakfast at 3,330 metres.
Back in Verbier, hotels like the four-star Hôtel La Cordée des Alpes offer a plusher chalet experience: a spa is a welcome treat after the rusticity of the cabane experience.
Prices in Switzerland are never favourable, but staying for one night or more in the area gets you a Verbier Infinite Playground card, which gives you free lift trips if you’re on foot (50 per cent off by bike); a free bus to the train station at Le Chable; and money-off attractions and e-bike rental.
Verbier also caters to the wellness crowd. Yoga has long been popular, with an annual summer festival and various studios (including Wholeycow in Verbier and Studio des Combins in nearby Champsec) offering private outdoor sessions.
For foodies, walking guides can take you foraging in the forests, followed by a meal made from your findings. And if you’re keen for an artier twist on a hike, the route from Les Ruinettes to La Chaux is lined with sculptures, including a startling metal elephant skeleton. Read More...
