Taverna tou Oikonomou: A Historical Gem in Suburban Athens with an Eye on the Future
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Loading... - Arturo Ortiz
- 02 Dec 2024
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When Kostas Diamantis, the longstanding steward of Taverna tou Oikonomou, announced his retirement in spring 2023, many mourned what they perceived as the end of an era for this beloved establishment. For 25 years, Diamantis had been the heart and soul of this emblematic tavern located on Kydantidon Street in Ano Petralona, a neighborhood known for its vibrant culture and rich history. However, just a year and a half later, the taverna continues to thrive, blending the charm of its storied past with thoughtful updates that signal a promising future.
A Seamless Transition
Upon entering Taverna tou Oikonomou, patrons are greeted by a familiar ambiance that has been subtly refreshed. While the essence of the taverna remains intact, significant structural improvements have enhanced the space. The floors, ceilings, walls, and restrooms now exude a renewed shine, while the walls continue to showcase works from esteemed Greek painters and intellectuals who frequented the establishment, such as Fassianos, Psychopedis, and Stathopoulos. The presence of Kostis Papagiorgis’s books adds to the literary charm of the venue.
At the heart of Taverna tou Oikonomou is its commitment to traditional Greek cuisine. The new management, led by Filippos Tsagridis and his right-hand man Vassilis Bakasis, has pledged to keep the culinary offerings unchanged while subtly upgrading their quality. They source excellent sourdough bread daily from Kora Bakery in Kolonaki and have established exclusive partnerships with small producers to enhance the raw materials used in their dishes. Signature items like ladera, braised rooster, dolmades, rabbit stifado, and baked lamb with quince potatoes continue to be culinary rituals for loyal patrons.
Building Trust with the Community
Bakasis reflects on the transition, emphasizing the importance of maintaining the taverna’s culinary integrity. “Leaving the most sensitive part of the taverna, its food and its people, untouched was the biggest promise we made to Kostas Diamantis,” he shares. The new team has worked diligently to build relationships with their customers, often engaging in conversations to earn their trust. “Today, we are reaping the fruits of our efforts. Now we know most of them by their first names,” he adds proudly.
A Wine Revolution
One of the most noticeable changes at Taverna tou Oikonomou is its extensive wine list, which has grown from zero to 180 bottles, all sourced exclusively from Greek vineyards. This impressive selection includes rare labels and vintages, allowing both new and returning customers to explore the richness of Greek wines at affordable prices.
Bakasis reveals plans for the future, stating, “We have decided to slowly and steadily create four small and flexible menus that will be added like seasonal dishes to our main menu.” This initiative aims to incorporate seasonal ingredients and introduce dishes that reflect the diversity of Greek cuisine, including forgotten recipes that the taverna’s cook remembers from the past.
Embracing Art and Culture
In addition to culinary innovation, Taverna tou Oikonomou is also looking to reclaim its status as a cultural hub. Bakasis mentions, “It makes us especially happy when new artists come and ask us to present some of their work in the taverna.” The management is committed to fostering a community of contemporary artists, allowing them to showcase their work periodically, thereby reinforcing the taverna's dual identity as a center of art and intellect.
As the evening concludes with a delightful serving of galaktoboureko and ravani with ice cream, it becomes clear that Taverna tou Oikonomou is not just a place to eat; it is a cherished part of the city’s cultural fabric. The blend of traditional flavors, a commitment to quality, and a vision for the future creates an experience that resonates deeply with both locals and visitors.
Reflecting on the evening, it is evident that Taverna tou Oikonomou has successfully navigated the transition from one era to another. Its evolution, marked by thoughtful updates rather than drastic changes, ensures that this historic tavern will continue to be a cornerstone of Athens’ culinary and cultural landscape for years to come. The establishment’s dedication to preserving its rich heritage while embracing modernity is a testament to its resilience and significance in the heart of the city.
