New Zealand: Six dishes you need to eat in Wellington
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Loading... - Colin Drakos
- 31 May 2022
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Renowned New Zealand chef Martin Bosley felt that the nation's capital, Wellington, needed an inspired food and wine festival. He devised, with like-minded culinary types, an annual event offering diners "something different". The result is Visa Wellington on a Plate: a 16-day celebration of fresh produce, cool cocktails, creative dishes and craft beer. And a "battle of the burger."
Bosley says would-be participants fight for space in the jam-packed program (there are 126 events in its eighth year) and the quality is high. "Just having a musician come along while you serve food and wine is not going to cut it," he says. "It must be unique but not too gimmicky."
Here are our top picks:
Pizza
Three weeks into a law career, Tom Kirton decided he wanted to make pizza for a living. He spent nearly a year in New York learning how to hand stretch dough and source the finest toppings. Tommy Millions is a redesigned toilet block in Courtenay Place, serving authentic, thin-crust pizza by the slice. Kirton is presenting "Who ate all the (pizza) pies" – a modern take on the Pizza Hut (the last one closed this year in NZ) all-you-can-eat-buffet, including a classy version of the oft-maligned Hawaiian pizza. Kirton has yet to decide on either pickled or fire-roasted pineapple, with one thing for sure – it won't be from a tin. Homemade organic soft-serve completes the meal.
Burger and beer
Winning the "battle of the burger" is a big deal and newcomer Slim Davey's Friendly Neighbourhood Saloon is joining scores of other eateries in the competition, entering its "fried, spicy chicken thigh with kimchi, crisp lettuce, salted cucumber and Japanese mayonnaise." The casual diner is pumping with Ortega chef Mark Limacher, who trained internationally acclaimed Ben Shewry (Attica, Melbourne), running the kitchen.
Meanwhile, Garage Project Brewery is finessing a bunch of unorthodox new brews to partner the burgers vying for attention. One of the project's founders, Jos Ruffell, says they brewed 24 beers in their first year, so that they could take some risks. Last year, there were more than 30 tastes. Unconventional ingredients such as bonito flakes, sea water, pink pepper, black truffle, Hawaiian bamboo jade salt and pomegranate make an appearance. Ruffell believes it's easy to make a beer that offends nobody, so he doesn't mind "having flavours that polarise and develop a cult following".
Meat and vegies
Hillside Kitchen and Cellar, joining Visa Wellington on a Plate for the first time, transforms from daytime deli to night-time restaurant, with a fixation on modern multicultural New Zealand fare incorporating local produce. The menu includes crispy Cameron Family Farms brussels sprouts (sourced from the farm less than an hour away) with Awatoru smoked tuna (caught off the coast about 30 minutes down the road). The restaurant's "battle of the burger" entry is Longbush Pork terrine, house-made bacon, fried chicken, Kingsmeade Sunset blue cheese, homemade pickles and hot sauce. As chef-owner Asher Boote says,"for almost a little bit too long, Kiwi (cuisine) was just roast lamb and honey but now there are so many more influences".
Sweets
Three tiers of sweets and savouries follow the espresso martini to be served at the first ever High Coffee at the Intercontinental Hotel in the heart of the city. Among the delicacies are a fair-sized smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel, creamy egg sandwiches, crispy bacon and avocado slider, traditional scone with lashings of jam, chocolate and popping candy lollipop, lemon tart and a divine mocha macaroon skilfully created exclusively by the hotel patissier. All served in the elegant surrounds of the plush hotel foyer.
Cocktails
Strictly speaking cocktails aren't a dish but some would argue a skilfully constructed cocktail can provide sustenance. Head to the Hawthorn Lounge, where house rules such as "bring only guests you would comfortably invite into your own home", welcome you. And gentlemen are urged not to approach women they don't know, but to give a note of introduction to the bartender to pass on. Bar manager Peter Lowry says the latest "cocktail renaissance" can be credited to the desire to replicate recipes of the 1920s with "honest ingredients" and a harkening back to the times of old. He tailors the list according to taste and demand: "If someone wants a drink as bitter as hell, we'll make it or if someone wants a tall, refreshing drink, we'll make it" – without gimmicks or pretension.
Gelato
Graham Joe has yet to name the Supercharger beer and preserved lemon gelato he's concocted. The fine flavour joins a long list of extraordinary combinations offered at Gelissimo, the gelateria perfectly positioned on the Wellington waterfront. Joe's passion has led to several gold-medal-winning recipes including Gorgonzola, "Cool-as Cucumber" and the people's favourite "Yum-Yum" involving vanilla, peanut butter, salter caramel and dark chocolate. Gelissimo's tasting plates include a vegetable-themed selection and another with herbs and infusions. One of the most heady of Joe's recipes is the curry, coriander and mushroom confit, which was custom-made for a local restaurant. As for a name for the beer and preserved lemon gelato, my suggestion is "Cheers!" Read More...
